In defence of offal

We’re taking a slight diversion this week to look at an unappreciated and seriously underrated type of food – offal.

You will need:
Devilled Kidneys:
1 small finely chopped shallot
6 lamb kidneys
Couple of knobs of butter
1 tablespoon plain flour
1 tablespoon tomato puree
1 teaspoon mustard
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 red chilli, sliced
2 tablespoons of whisky
1 tablepoon of Worcester sauce
1 tablespoon chopped chives

10 green peppercorns
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon mustard powder
6 allspice
3 black cardamom pods
300ml full fat milk
200g flour
Tablespoonful of garam masala

150g butter
250g chicken livers
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, sliced
1/2 teaspoon of mustard powder
2 tablespoons of brandy
1 teaspoon of Worcester sauce
1 teaspoon of cranberry powder
1 tablespoon of shelled pistachios
1 teaspoon of capers

Serves 2

Devilled Kidneys:

Get a glug of oil into a pan on a very high heat, then add finely chopped shallots and a pinch of salt
As soon as the shallot begins to colour at the edges, add the kidneys and let them sear briefly before turning them
Add the butter and turn the kidneys
Add the flower and stir it in
Next, add the tomato puree and mustard followed by the garlic and chilli
Pour in the whisky and Worcester sauce
Add the chives and serve on top of a slice of brioche


Add the spices to the milk in a sauce pan
Place the sweetbreads into the milk
Cover with clingfilm, and marinate in the fridge overnight, or at least for a few hours
Once you’re ready, bring gently up to boil and simmer for two minutes
Use a slotted spoon to remove the meat, then get a pan ready on a high heat
Coat sweetbreads in the flour, mixed with garam masala
Get a large glug of oil in the pan and, making sure the sweetbreads are lightly coated, place them into the oil
After a minute or two, add a few knobs of butter
Pieces of this size should only need 4 to 5 minutes in the pan
Take them out and sprinkle with a little salt, then they’re ready to serve with a small pot of tartare sauce


Melt the butter in a pan on a medium heat, then remove from the heat once it’s completely melted
Pour about half of it into a frying pan, along with a glug of oil
Add finely chopped shallot and fry until beginning to colour
Add the livers and a pinch of salt, then leave to cook
Add the mustard powder and brandy
Next, add chopped garlic and a generous dash of Worcester sauce.
At the last minute, add a teaspoon of dried cranberry powder and the rest of the butter
Pour into a blender and process until silky smooth
Stir in the nuts and capers and leave to set in the fridge until needed